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Care and Storage of Coins
By Alan Herbert, Warman's U.S. Coin Collecting
October 27, 2010

One of your early concerns as a collector is the safe storage and protection of your collection. Storage methods vary widely and there are numerous potential hazards that could damage or even destroy your favorite collectible.

The two topics fit together as some of the things you do to store your coins and some of the hazards go together. Some you can insure against, others you can’t, and it’s frequently impossible to replace valued pieces in your collection.

Warman's U.S. Coin Collecting
Warman's U.S. Coin Collecting

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Coins need to be protected from handling and from pollution or contamination in the air around us. Add in the possibilities of a fire or a flood, or a broken waterline in your house. There are burglars and home invasion baddies that will strip your collection to the bone. Some of these security things you will want to do yourself. Some of you are probably going to have to risk it because of the expense factor. When your collection gets into the triple digits it’s time to find a safety deposit box at a bank.

Before you sign up, read the fine print in the box contract. If the vault is broken into, the bank’s insurance may not cover the loss. Homeowner’s Insurance probably won’t cover it either, but you can buy a special policy that will protect your collection at home, or in the bank. Usually there is a discount for coins kept in the bank. Talk to your insurance agent.

Coins are much like humans. They like the same moderate temperatures and low humidity that we like. That’s why the attic and the basement are ruled out as places to keep your coins. Your storage media will suffer as well. If you have coins in holders of flips containing PVC, heat will speed up the PVC damage.

An important point is to not only dispose of plastic flips that contain PVC, but get rid of the plastic-vinyl album pages that contain the chemical. Fumes from PVC will seep into your neutral plastic holders stored in a PVC-laced vinyl page. As a general rule, most flips that contain PVC are soft and pliable, while most Mylar and other safe plastics are stiff and hard.

A closet shelf may come crashing down under the weight of the coins, and those under the bed will catch a lot of lint for the cat to play with. It’s amazing how much a small box of coins will weigh.

Don’t put them in a freezer, as crooks have learned that is the first place to look. A wall or floor safe, securely bolted down is one option, but you will probably have to compromise on a burglar proof safe, as the fire proof safes may contain chemicals that will damage your coins. Try and find a storage place that isn’t that obvious, which also rules out the back of the closet. Think out of the box. For example, a box buried under old clothes in a clothes hamper is not likely to draw unwanted attention. Use your ingenuity.

Storage media is a hot topic. I’d suggest keeping an eye on your increasing number of coins. It’s an excellent idea to start sorting and pick a value, perhaps $50 or $100. Any coin over the value you pick gets VIP treatment – storage in an inert, hard plastic holder. These are somewhat similar to the holders (slabs) used by the grading companies. They provide maximum protection, especially for proof or uncirculated coins.

“Always use products specifically designed for coins.”

For a pot full of cents, or dozens of dimes, the next best things are inert plastic coin tubes. A glass prescription bottle may hold a handful of coins, but drop it and you’ll be picking up glass splinters for days. The hard plastic holders give the coins the best possible protection. Make sure your budget includes proper storage media. Oddly enough, an exception to the rule are plastic bags used to hold various foods for human consumption.

Next come the plastic 2x2 coin flips and the matching paper ones. Make sure that you get rid of the PVC plastic. Mylar Flips will replace them, but can damage coins if they are moved in and out frequently.

The plastic and paper flips should not be used for long term storage – more than six months. Under exceptional conditions they will protect your coins over a longer span, but the big problem is that they are not air tight.

The same is true of the cardboard 2x2 holders. They have a Mylar window so that you can see both sides of the coin. These can be stapled shut, again with the warning not to get the staples or the stapler too close to the coin. To keep the coin safe the 2x2 needs to be stapled on the three open sides. Again the reminder to use your pliers to flatten the staple legs so they don’t damage an adjacent coin. Staples will rust, but there are stainless steel staples on the market.

Next come coin folders and coin boards. These have holes for each date and mint, and in some cases the outstanding minting varieties, such as overdates. These are what you most likely will use to start your collection.

The folders have a paper backing, so you can see only one side of the coin. They expose the visible side to the atmosphere and any pollution, contamination or fingerprints. My recommendation is that you use them for circulated coins that will not show problems. Your uncirculated coins need special protection and proof coins should be left in their packaging.

The album pages allow seeing both sides of the coin, usually held in place by plastic strips. This type of album should also be used for circulated coins, as the plastic strips can scratch the coins as they slide back and forth. There are also albums designed to hold the coins in inert plastic holders, such as those used by the grading companies. These of course can be used for proof coins and uncirculated grade coins.

Coin folders are the basis for many, if not most collections, because they provide several collecting aides. There is a hole for coins for each date. Under the hole is the mintage figure, which tells you the relative rarity.

Canvas mint bags are among the poorer storage media. They obviously are not immune to water or contamination. Plus, every time the bag is moved the coins rub and scratch each other.

At the very bottom of the list are paper wrappers and the plastic tubes used by the Mint to ship coins. The paper wrappers offer only a bare minimum of protection. They tear easily, offer no protection from water damage and are easily penetrated by contamination. The “shotgun rolls” have the two end coins exposed. The soft plastic tubes also offer limited protection, with open ends. As with the paper wrappers, they should not be used for upper grade coins.

The odds are that you may have stored some coins in aluminum foil. This is something you need to immediately change. Any moisture will result in the metal-to-metal contact corroding the coin. I learned this after digging up several rolls of Morgan dollars that had been wrapped in foil and buried in the damp dirt floor of a garage. Every coin had suffered damage that no collector would want.

If you are using a shoe box for coin storage, you are running the risk of contamination. Trade it in for a plastic bin with a tight fitting lid, which will keep out anything in the air.

Summing up, it’s very important that you take special care of your coins. I was as guilty as anyone of letting coins fend for themselves in cups or bowls that offered no protection. Nothing will hurt as much as to discover that a coin with some value has lost much of it due to scratches or dings inflicted while they were lying loose. Doing your housekeeping will pay big dividends.

Keep paper (except 2x2 coin flips) such as tissue paper, envelopes and cardboard away from your coins. Paper contains sulfur, which will turn your coins black. Cotton lined flips are relatively safe, but as with the regular flips, they should not be used for long term storage. A reminder again, use products specifically tested and intended for use with coins.

Even with the best of care, your proof and uncirculated coins may discolor or tarnish. In many cases this is from exposure prior to being packaged. Don’t be surprised if your prize coin that’s safely housed in a protective holder suddenly shows a fingerprint or a change in color. If you handled the coin correctly, the odds are that the coin was exposed before you got it.

Back during World War II they used a slogan to warn against giving information to the enemy: “Loose lips can sink a ship.” Today you can lose your collection to a burglar by bragging about it, or openly displaying it. You need to impress on your relatives and friends that they are a risk to your collection if they talk about it to strangers, or even have their conversation overheard.

Coin dealers go to great lengths to overcome this problem. Gangs of thieves have been known to follow a dealer for miles when leaving a coin show and breaking into the vehicle when he stops for food or gas. As a collector you are not likely to face this problem unless you display a bunch of gold coins at the show. Use your head.

You can also rent a post office box so that your home address isn’t on everything that comes to you through the mail. Address labels should be removed from all envelopes and other papers before they go in the trash or to be recycled. A paper shredder is a good investment.



This is an excerpt from Warman’s U.S. Coin Collecting by Alan Herbert available at www.shopnumismaster.com.





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Comments
On October 30, 2010 Doug Bowers said
Some of my collection is stored in the plastic capitol holders that has 3 pieces held together with plastic screws. How well are they for storing uncirculated sets?
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On November 26, 2011 said
My friend hides his coin collection in plain sight.He also said they are close by in case he gets in the mood to look at his coins whenever he wants.I told him he just mite go for one of his coins and *BANG* it's not there. Then he notices that they are all gone. He shoul have listened to me and put them in a vault. Because that it exactely what hapened.
On November 26, 2011 jimbob said
For temporary coin storage I lean toward the high quality paper flip with the window on each side. I also use a high grade scotch tape to seal the three sides of the flip after it has been identified and graded. It's just three 2" lengths of tape folded over each side. It looks clean and if done rite no moisture can get inside. Been doing that system for years and the tape has never ruined any coins.

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